Yosemite National Park is one of my all time favorite places to explore in the USA, and probably the best preserved piece of North American nature. The Rhode Island sized area is nestled in the Sierra Nevada mountains, about a 3 hour drive from San Francisco, California. The park is visited by more than 3.5 million people each year and the first time you visit, you will understand why.
Yosemite is popular for nature enthusiasts, rock climbers, hikers, campers, birders, and photographers. Your trip will have many moments that take your breath away and the first one should happen entering the valley through Tunnel View.
I was fortunate enough to spend three months exploring Yosemite in 2023, and I have included all the hikes you should ad to your itinerary in this ultimate Yosemite guide.
Leave a comment if you want more information on a specific hike, and I will create a separate post about it! Scroll to the bottom for a FREE map download with all of these destinations, and more, pinned!
Only have a short time in Yosemite? Check out this modified list of realistic MUST SEE hikes. CLICK HERE
LONG HIKES
Upper Yosemite Falls & Yosemite Point
6.6 mile & 8.4 mile hike
Upper Yosemite Falls is one of the most prominent features of Yosemite Valley and used on most post cards and park memorabilia. This astounding 3,000 foot snow fed waterfall cascades over granite walls, dramatically plunging into the valley over a series of waterfalls and pools.
If you travel early in the season or a year with lots of snow, the falls should be cascading heavily with accompanying rainbows and mist trails. The hike to the upper falls is one of the most difficult, yet rewarding hikes out of the valley and will make you earn the views you get.
To start the hike you approach the granite walls between Camp 4 and Lower Yosemite Falls, following signage. The hike begins with a series of short and steep switchbacks to the tree line hugging the wall below Columbia Rock. The first section of this trail will take you to the base of the upper falls, where hopefully some mist will cool you off before beginning the next strenuous section to the summit.
Pro Tip: Where you first see the upper falls after coming over the shoulder below Columbia Rock, there is a small side trail that appears to go down. Take this about 20 feet into the trees where there is a secret lookout called, “OMG Point”, where you can see each all of the falls.
After grabbing a snack at the base of the falls (because you will need it), you begin a never ending switchback stair climber to the granite summit. This is a difficult section and it will take you a long time, plan for longer than you think especially if it is a hot day. The trail is composed of lose rocks, dirt, granite steps, and boulders you need to ascend to the top. At the top you traverse a rocky section along to the river feeding the falls to the drop off.
There is another section of short stairs descending the lookout that peers over the falls and I recommend doing this. If you continue across the bridge you can climb up to Yosemite Point with stunning panorama views of Glacier Point, Curry Village, Half Dome, Vernal Falls, and the Panoramic Trail. If you are already buggered out I think Yosemite Point is ok to skip, I like the views from the opposite side of the valley better.
Half Dome
14-16 mile hike
Obviously a bucket list hike for Yosemite travelers from all over the world. Half Dome’s majestic granite face careens over the valley, visible from almost every vantage point. To prevent overcrowding park authorities limit access with permits and there are three ways you can make sure to get one.
- Online Lottery – Block off a lot of time for you permit to be designated and do it early enough for you to plan your trip around the dates you get selected for. This is the most surefire way to get a permit.
- Daily Lottery – Through my trials I learned if you have a group of people you are more likely to get a daily lottery if you all enter separately for more chances to win. This is risky, but more common in shoulder seasons.
- Hike and Beg – Many people I talked to found success through this method and recommended it to me as I struggled to win a lottery. The theory is there are groups of hikers that end up having extra unfilled spaces on their permit which you could fill. You need to hike almost 10 miles into the guard’s station at the base of the dome where they check permits and wait until a group comes by you can join. Two caveats with this method is 1) you have to ascend and descend with the group to ensure you abide by their permit and 2) you may not have luck on your side and have to return from that long hike without actually hiking the dome.
The last method for hiking half dome is waiting until the season is over and hiking it when the cables are down. Half Dome does not require a permit after they remove the cable posts, but you are also hiking without the substantial benefit of the aids. Cables are up usually the Friday before Memorial Day in May, and taken down mid October around Columbus Day.
Nevada Fall
7.3 mile hike
After hiking the jaw dropping Mist Trail, continue up to the even larger 600 ft. Nevada Fall. If you follow the Mist Trail hike, you cross the river again at the top of Vernal Falls and ascend short, steep stairs and switchbacks to the platform. The Panorama Trail connects to the opposite side of the falls here or you can reverse your steps back to the John Muir Trail intersection.
CAUTION: People have been swept over the falls misjudging the strength and intensity of the water. The rocks are slippery and it only takes one wrong move, so give wide berths and always practice 3 points of contact.
Cloud’s Rest
20 mile hike from the valley or 14.5 from Tenaya Lake
One of the park staff’s most recommended, yet longest hikes from the valley clocking more than 20 miles starting from the Mist Trail. This hike takes you up Vernal Falls, Nevada Fall, around Half Dome, and finished at the Cloud’s Rest Peak. I met a guy who ran the entire round trip hike in 6 hours so it is possible in a day if this is on your list. You can also access the peak with a 14.5 mile round trip hike from the Tenaya Lake in high country, which offers significantly less elevation gain.
4 Mile Trail
10 mile round trip hike from the valley
That feeling when the sign says 4 miles, but is actually 5. This is the only way up to Glacier Point from the valley when the road is closed. The trail is well maintained and consists of switchback all the way to the summit. This trail will take you half a day to complete and longer if you spend more time hanging out with the views at Glacier Point or continue on to additional hikes at the top. You get great views of Yosemite Falls on the opposite side of the valley and this is a great option to get to those viewpoints if you do not have a car because the Yosemite shuttle has a stop at the beginning of the hike.
Middle Earth
Rock climbing and repelling – >>Refer to this post<<
An otherworldly series of dramatic infinity pools overlooking the majestic Yosemite Valley, all to yourself! This is a rock climbing and repelling hike that can only be done when water levels are low at Yosemite Falls. You gain access by climbing to the base of Upper Yosemite Falls, then follow the water and canyons into the series of pools below. Some repels are quite significant and it is recommended to go with someone that has experience.
(I am sure if you visit the Search and Rescue camp with a case of beer and tacos someone will be obliged to take you for an afternoon adventure.)
SHORT HIKES
Vernal Falls via The Mist Trail
3 mile hike to the base of the falls & 6.4 for the loop
One of the most majestic places I have ever been able to witness, truly a breathtaking experience at the right time of the year. The hike begins on a paved steep road to a bathroom and water refill station at the base of the falls. If you continue hiking you can choose to ascend the famous Mist Trail stairs or the John Muir Trail over the pass.
If you climb the stairs, you will most likely get soaked so be prepared with a bag cover, waterproof hiking shoes, and maybe a change of socks. I also bring trash bags and put all my electronics and food in there so the water does not seep through to them. The stairs get crowded with slow moving traffic, and there are sections that are steep with some exposure. The safest way back is to follow the John Muir Trail down the switchbacks. This adds mileage, but you will avoid coming down crowded and slippery stairs. I had to grab a guy who slipped through the railing up to his waist coming down the stairs in front of me. Added benefits to the John Muir Trail are an amazing aerial viewpoint of Vernal Falls, DON’T MISS IT!
Sentinel Dome
2.2 mile hike
Sentinel Dome is a great short hike for people of most levels and fitness. The shortest path to the dome is from the Taft Point parking lot, following signs to the right backside of the dome. Ascending the dome may look more intimidating than it is, and my advice is to just go slow and make small ‘S’ curves to the top. The granite is very grippy and the 360 degree views from the top are worthwhile. If you want to add mileage you can make it a loop leaving from Glacier Point.
Taft Point
2 mile hike
One of those epic places with one of the steepest drop-offs in Yosemite Valley. The 2 mile round trip hike takes you to a lookout facing El Capitan on the opposite side of the valley. Do not park at the first Taft Point parking lot, there is another less crowded one just past that lot with a bathroom and I never had problems finding parking there because all the crowd the first one. The hike is flat with a small descent to the lookout point, uphill coming back.
There is a railing on a small section for people scared to approach the bare cliff, and this is where you want your photographer to stand to photograph you out on the point. On your way to the cliff you cross over sections of fissures left by ancient receding glaciers, so watch where you are walking.
Taft point is where the famous base jumper Dean Potter lost his life in a wingsuit jump, and is one of the most common places you hear about tourists falling to their deaths. Also do not be surprised if you show up and adrenaline junkies have set up a high line across the gap or other nefarious activities.
El Capitan Approach
10-15 minute hike to “The Nose”
Watch Freesolo then go see El Capitan. Spend a half hour hiking the approach trail to the base of El Capitan, a rock climbers paradise. Seeing the 3,000 ft. wall up close from the base is a completely different experience than from lookouts or the meadows, and I still get goosebumps thinking about it.
Another secret is there is usually a rope swing set up during the summer in the alcove to the right of El Capitan’s base. To find it you need to hike to the base and follow the wall to the right until you reach the alcove. If it is there make sure you tie in with a harness and attach a brake line to the wall to pull yourself back and have at it! (tie it back up like you found it)
Chilnualna Falls
1 mile to the base or 8.4 mile hike to the top
Where water leaps instead of falling. Only do this hike if you have a lot of time in Yosemite AND only if it has been a season of heavy rain or snowmelt. There is an 8.4 mile round trip hike to the top of the falls, but I think the base of the falls is pretty good on its own. You start this hike by parking in the lot by the bathrooms and hike up the dirt road. If you hike down the dirt road to the river you will continue to the Wawona Swinging Bridges.
You will see the falls in about 5 minutes of walking and a series of steep stairs up the hill. You will not see any waterfalls, other than a brief section next to the river, past this point until you get 4.2 miles to the top. The top of the falls is great and majestic, with a massive drop, however there are no great viewpoints or awesome lookouts, especially if you have limited time to explore the rest of Yosemite.
Wawona Swinging Bridge
1.4 mile hike
One of the best hidden gems Yosemite has to offer. The Swinging Bridge hike is very early into the south entrance of the park, tucked away inside the town of Wawona. I bet 95% of visitors have never visited this hike, and you will likely have it all to yourself. The flat dirt trail is great anytime of the day ending at a swinging bridge you can cross over the river AND there are swimming holes everywhere. The water is calm and there are dunk pools you can relax in while you soak in the sounds of the forest.
Lembert Dome
2.8 mile hike
It is like stepping onto the moon! Heading into high country and the Tuolumne Meadows section of Yosemite you get the chance to hike up an incredible monolithic granite dome. Lembert Dome is a stark contrast to its surroundings, appearing to rise out of the trees and meadows, standing alone as a stone fortress. There is a trail around the entire base of the dome and you can pick which route takes you to the top.
1) If you go left from the parking lot you have a long steep approach before connecting to the dome’s ascent chute. 2) If you go right from the parking lot you need to walk up the street to the next parking lot, where a trail will connect you to the chute. 3) You can also just full steam hike up the face of the dome on all fours.
I recommend the second option because although it is steeper at the beginning, that section only lasts for 1 mile, all downhill back to the main parking lot. Similar to climbing any dome they are more intimidating than they look. Go your own pace, use trekking poles, and use a serpentine pattern.
Pro Tip: The easiest way to climb Lembert Dome is to continue past the false summit looking on the ground for a definitive crack that cases around the left of the dome. Follow that to find the easiest way up.
Twin Bridges
1.8 mile hike.
Stunning views of the snowcapped Sierra Nevada mountains, in a pristine meadow right next to Lembert Dome. This scenic nature walk follows the Tuolomne river to a set of twin bridges overlooking a field of wild flowers, framed by steep mountains that face the Mammoth side of Tioga Pass. This is the perfect place to soak your feet or go for a polar plunge in the afternoon sun. You can access the bridges from the Lembert Dome parking lot, just walk across the street and follow the dirt trail left like you were to continue driving on Tioga Pass. Then follow the forks right until you get to the bridges, on the way back you can connect to the second hiking option for the dome and make a nice loop.
Grizzly Giant at Mariposa Grove
2 mile loop hike with the shuttle.
See some of the world’s largest and oldest living trees. Take the shuttle bus from the Mariposa Grove parking lot and hike the loop to see the Grizzly Giant and other large Sequoias. If you need more hiking, take the trail down instead of the shuttle bus, although I am more of a rock guy than a tree guy.
Mirror Lake
4-5 mile loop hike.
Afternoons spent at mirror lake are what dreams are made of! Expert photographers say 3pm is the best time of day to visit the lake, which is more like a shallow pond of standing water, especially later in the season. The water makes an impressive reflection of the surrounding cliffs and half dome. You can even ride bikes up the left side of the trail for easier access.
Wapama Falls at Hetch Hetchy Reservoir
4.7 mile hike.
Live, laugh, love Hetch Hetchy one of Yosemite’s less talked about marvels. This area of Yosemite is seldom visited or talked about by national park tourists, because it is out of the way and visiting a manmade landmark seems like the opposite reason to visit National Parks. Except I am here to tell you this place is unreal. They nicknamed it little Yosemite and you will immediately understand why at your first glimpse.
The dam was installed in 1923 and slowly filled the valley from the Tuolumne River at the back of the valley. You cannot swim in the reservoir which is the biggest bummer especially because summer temperatures in this section of the park can easily reach 110F. Walk across the damn and you will see its immense power, rainbows, and perfect water reflections. If you continue on the trail you finish at Wapama and Tueeulala falls which offer a refreshing mist for your hike back.
Listen to the Little Yo Podcast episode about Hetch Hetchy as you make the drive in to learn everything you need to know and more!
Carlon Falls
2 mile hike
A semi-private, secluded waterfall, with a cave you can sit in behind the falls. This is a moderate 2 mile hike along the Tuolumne river. The hike’s elevation gain is relatively flat other than two rock scrambles. This hike is best first thing in the morning because there is a small parking area that fills up in the afternoon, and the waterfall is way nicer when you have it to yourself. Carlon Falls is only 5 minutes from Rush Creek, and about 15 minutes from Evergreen Lodge.
LOOKOUTS
Tunnel View
The opening of Jurassic Park has nothing on the jaw dropping that occurs at the Tunnel View every single day. You need to pull over and get your first looks at the valley, especially if it is your first time. You will be blessed with an amazing view of Bridalveil Fall, El Capitan, Sentinel Dome, Half Dome, and the valley floor covered in its thick dressage of pine trees.
Glacier Point
If you only do one thing in Yosemite, head up to Glacier Point. This lookout gives you vantage points of El Capitan, Half Dome, Yosemite Falls, Curry Village, Mirror Lake, Vernal Falls, Nevada Falls, and so much more. You have a short paved walk from the parking lot to features including an amphitheater, geology museum, gift shop, and the lookout. I spent a lot of time up here while visiting Yosemite and whether you drive up or hike the 4 mile trail to the top, the views will not disappoint, also great for a last minute sunset.
El Capitan Meadows
One of the most scenic and peaceful places on Earth, I would gladly spend an entire day marveling at Yosemite from the El Capitan Meadows. Pull your car off on the side of the road and go find a spot to sit in the meadows, my favorite is by a massive downed tree which has a great cleared section of grass in front to spread out. You can watch hundreds of rock climbers on both sides of the valley and I recommend returning for star gazing when it gets dark.
Olmstead Point
If you plan on visiting high country and the Tuolumne Meadows, take a 5 minute break at this lookout. The park often has telescopes set up and you can see people climbing the cables to half dome. You also get a vantage point of the Cloud’s Rest peak and you will soon drive by Tenaya Lake into the Tuolumne Meadows.
Rainbow Pool
The ONLY place to cliff jump in Yosemite can be found at Rainbow Pool on the way to Groveland. The small waterfall empties into a bowl with a 15 foot cliff to jump off. Parking operators charge $10/car for the day when you enter, or you can park across the highway and walk in.
Bridalveil Fall
This is a fun drive by, but it is very overcrowded and the first thing people stop at when they enter the valley. Just take in the falls from Tunnel View and keep driving, there are bigger and better places to explore!
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